Grandma
Perkins Magical Dream Catcher Frisbee
Dream
Catcher by Night - Frisbee by Day
Yes! It’s a Two-For.
It has removable feathers
so it can transform into a
Frisbee that you can catch:
Beat your drums and take a trip with me
to Neverland.
We will head on down to Mermaid Lagoon
and over to the Indian Camp.
There we’ll find Tiger Lily,
and she can tell us all about Dream
Catchers.
They are a tradition of
Native Americans,
and began with the Ojibwa
Nation.
They are designed to
protect you
while you sleep.
Good dreams pass through
the holes.
But bad dreams get
trapped in the web,
and eventually vanish in
the morning light.
This pattern is
dedicated to Caelan,
who taught
Grandma
all about Dream Catchers.
I just wanted to share a little
happiness
and sprinkle a little pixie dust.
Dreams do come true, if only we wish
hard enough.
Now I must fly.
Second star to the right and straight
on 'til morning.
Pan
The Dream Catcher is a very easy
pattern and will allow you to use your imagination. Just about any kind of
stitch or design can be adapted to it. There
are infinite patterns that could be used.
Experiment with faces or animals or different shaped appliques such as
hearts and stars. They could be sewn to
any part of the Dream Catcher, not just the center. Just about any yarn or thread or cord
(including postal or kite string) could be adapted. You can change the hook size to make it tight
or loose. And with colors, anything
goes. The sky’s the limit. My first proto-type was made with the plastic
top of a large peanut can, and it worked quite well. I realized that maybe not everyone could find
a plastic top that large so I adapted the pattern to a plastic canvas circle
shape that can be bought from craft shops.
A nine-inch circle can produce five different sized hoops that will be
usable as Frisbees. You could also
continue to cut more hoops from the remaining circle, and create your own
miniature Dream Catchers. Have fun and
enjoy the pattern. Pan
Sizes: 9.5” (~24 cm), 8.5” (21.5cm) 7.5” (19cm) 6.5” (16.5cm) and 6” (~15 cm)
Materials:
Caron Simply Soft (WW Med yarn): Various colors
~ ¼ oz. each color (or less)
~ ½ oz. if using only 1 color
Caron Simply Soft Light Sport wt: Small amount of Black for detailing
F / 3.75 mm hook
B / 2.25 mm hook for details
Plastic top ~ 6” (15cm) in diameter (I used a top from a 2.5 pound can of Kirkland peanuts)
Any container or plastic bottle (like a large liquid laundry soap container) that has a flat surface would work.
Trace and cut out a circle hoop.
Or a 6” (~15cm) to 9.5” (~24cm) plastic canvas circle (from a craft shop)
Or you could also use a brass hoop, but it would not be safe to throw as a Frisbee.
US Terminology
Gauge: 5 sc = ~ 1” Not crucial.
Abbreviations:
~ =
Approximately
Beg =
Beginning
Ch = Chain
Sc =
Single Crochet
Dc =
Double Crochet
Ss = Slip Stitch
Ss = Slip Stitch
St(s) = Stitch(es)
FO =
Fasten Off
Lp(s) =
Loop(s)
Rnd(s) =
Round(s)
YO = Yarn
over
Notes: When working the edging single
crochets around the hoop, make sure that they are not too tight.
With the plastic canvas circles, it is a may be difficult to
reposition the yarn evenly. The yarn
does not slide as easily as working on a smooth surface, such as a plastic top
or brass hoop. So with every stitch,
give a little nudge with your thumb and index finger to push the stitch snugly
in place, but do not cramp.
One more thing to mention: the number of stitches between each
loop that is picked up to be joined can be varied.
The thickness of the yarn and the size of the hoop could alter
the volume of the coverage.
This pattern is very forgiving so if you need more or less
stitches to make it look even, go for it.
The plastic peanut-top was about 6” (15cm) in diameter.
I cut the
side-edge and also the top-edge off for 2 hoops. The cut section for each was about 3/8”
wide.
To
Prepare the Plastic Canvas:
Carefully cut so you have an open circle-hoop that is 2 holes deep around the border.
Be sure to
cautiously trim the nubs so it will be as smooth as possible around the edges.
The number of
stitches around the hoop is not set in stone.
The thickness of the yarn could vary it greatly so alter the number
accordingly. .
[Remember
these are just estimates]
The outer 2-hole edge ~ 9.5” (24cm). Takes about 128 to 144 sc to
cover with Caron Simply Soft yarn and an F hook.
The next 2-hole
edge ~ 8.5” (21.5cm). Takes about 122 to 138 sc.
The next 2-hole
edge ~ 7.5” (19cm). Takes about 116 to 132 sc.
The next 2-hole
edge ~ 6.5” (16.5cm). Takes about 110 to 128 sc.
The next
2-hole edge or Plastic top ~ 6” (15cm) Takes about 75 to 100 sc.
Traditional Varigated: 6” (15 cm)
Rnd 1:
Ch 10, join to form ring. Ch 9,
(Dc, Ch 6) 4xs in the ring.
Join to 3rd
ch of beg ch-9 with a ss. (5dcs, 5 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 2:
Ss in first 3 chs of the loop, to bring you to the center of that
loop.
Then….. Ch 1, Sc in 1st sp. (Ch 12, Sc in next lp) around.
Join with a ss in 1st
sc. (5 ch-12-lps)
Rnd 4:
Ss in next 6 chs. Ch 1, Sc in
center sp. (Ch 15, Sc in next sp)
around.
Join with a ss in 1st
sc. (5 ch-15-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Ss in next 7 chs. Now pull the loop from the 7th ss
up ~3/8” (~1cm).
Place the hoop-ring behind the work with the working yarn
over the top and in back of the hoop-ring.
Then insert the hook down through the ch-18-lp and the hoop-ring.
YO and pull up to the top-edge of the hoop-ring and complete
a sc.
[You will have worked a Sc around both the working-loop and
the hoop-ring to join the work to the hoop-ring.]
Sc around just the hoop-ring 22 more times.
(22 Sc, Sc next
loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 22 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO. (110 +5 links = 115 sc)
Traditional 3-Colored: 6” (15 cm)
Rnd 1: Magic Ring
with Ch 1, 10 Hdc, join to the first hdc with a ss. (10)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, Hdc-Inc
around, join. (20)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, Sc in
same st as join.
(Ch 3, Skip 1 st, Sc in next)
around. Join to 1st sc with a
ss. (10 ch-3 lps)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, Sc in
first loop.
(Ch 10, Sc in next lp) around. Join to 1st sc with a ss. FO.
(10 ch-10 lps)
Rnd 5: Join new color
with a ss in first loop.
(Ch 12, Ss in next lp) around. Join with a ss in first lp. FO. (10 ch-12 lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc. [You will have worked the Sc around both the
loop and the hoop-ring]
(10 Sc, Sc next
loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO. (100 +10 links = 110 sc)
Yellow Sun Face: 6.5” (16.5
cm)
Eyes: Make
2 With Black sport wt and B hook:
In a Magic Ring, Ch 1 and 5
sc.
Join to first sc with a ss and FO
with about 8” to sew.
Center Back: With Med WW and F hook
Rnd 1: Magic Ring
with Ch 1, 10 Hdc, join to the first hdc with a ss. (10)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, Hdc-Inc
around, join. (20) Back is complete.
FO and set aside.
Center Front: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, but do not FO.
Remove hook and put a safety pin in the loop so it will not
unravel.
Position eyes and sew in place.
Sew a mouth with a single strand straight sts.
Place the back (1st piece) behind the working
piece with wrong sides together.
Remove safety pin and replace hook.
Rnd 3: Work this Rnd
through both thicknesses. Ch 1, Make a Sc.
(Ch 3, Sc in next st, Ch 6, sc in
next) around. Join last ch-6 with a ss to
first sc. FO. (10 ch-3-lps, 10 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 4: Join a new color with a ss in a ch-6-lp.
(Ch 6, ss in the next ch-6-lp)
around. Join last ch-6 with a ss to
first loop. FO. (10 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in a loop.
(Ch 7, ss in the next ch-6-lp)
around. Join last ch-7 with a ss to
first loop. FO. (10 ch-7-lps)
Rnd 6: Join a new color with a ss in a loop.
(Ch 12, ss in the next ch-7-lp)
around. Join last ch-12 with a ss to
first loop. FO. (10 ch-12-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 6 with the next Sc. [You will have worked the Sc around both the
loop and the hoop-ring]
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO. (100 +10 links = 110 sc)
Rainbow Rings: 7.5” (19 cm)
Center-Ring:
Rnd 1: Ch 30. Join to 1st ch to form a ring. Ch 1, 50 sc in the ring. Join.
(50)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, Sc
around. Join. FO. (50)
Small-Rings:
(Make 6: each a different color)
Each ring will be worked through the Center-Ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 20.
Pull the beginning part of the chain through the Center-Ring
from the under-side.
Now join to the first chain.
Ch 1, 30 sc in the
Small-Ring. Join. (30)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, Sc
around. Join. FO.
(30)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.
Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a Small-Ring with the next Sc.
[You will sc around the hoop-ring and into a sc on the
Small-Ring]
Do this for a total of 6 sc’s to join the Small-Ring.
Do this for a total of 6 sc’s to join the Small-Ring.
Then…
(Sc just around the hoop-ring 15 times. 6 Sc to join the next Small-Ring.) Rep 4 more
times.
Sc just around the hoop-ring 10 more times and join to the
first sc. FO. (90 + 36 to join rings = 126 sc)
Blue Irish Rose: 7.5” (19 cm)
Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a ss to the 1st ch. Ch 6, Dc in the Ring,
(Ch 3, Dc
in Ring) 4xs. Ch 3, join to 3rd
ch of the beg ch-6.
Rnd 2: (Ss, Hdc, 3 Dc, Hdc, Ss) in each ch-3-lp
around. (6 petals)
Rnd 3: (Ch 5, go
behind the petal, ss to the first ss of the next petal) around. (6 ch-5-lps)
Note: Mark the first dc of
the first 4-dc-group for placement of the joining-st in next rnd.
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in the first dc of the
4-dc-group [marked st].
Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook (first picot-loop made).
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook) 2xs,
then ss in the same st as the first
picot-lp [3-loop-picot complete].
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc
of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4 [first spoke complete].
* Ch 11, ss in the side of the last
picot-loop of the last spoke,
Ch 3, sk the ss
and the next 3 chs,
ss in the next ch [this
should be the 8th ch counting up from the ss on Rnd 4: picot-loop
made]
Note: When connecting picots, you may need to give a little tug on the ss to
straighten it out.
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook) 2xs, ss in the same st as the first picot-lp.
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc
of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4.* [second
spoke complete].
Repeat from * to * 10xs. On the last picot of the last spoke Ch 3 [instead
of 7],
ss to the beg first picot, Ch 3, ss
Ch 7, ss in the same as the beg
marked st [the 1st dc of the 4-dc-group]. FO. (12
spokes with 3-lp-picots).
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc on the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Work a Sc around the hoop-ring catching a center picot-loop from Rnd 5.
(10 Sc, Sc with next center-picot-loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO. (120 + 12 links = 132 sc)
Green Irish Rose: 8.5” (21.5cm)
Note: This pattern is the same as the Blue Irish Rose except picots are not
connected on the sides, and it is stretched a bit tighter on a larger ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a ss to the 1st ch. Ch 6, Dc in the Ring,
(Ch 3, Dc
in Ring) 4xs. Ch 3, join to 3rd
ch of the beg ch-6.
Rnd 2: (Ss, Hdc, 3 Dc, Hdc, Ss) in each ch-3-lp
around. (6 petals)
Rnd 3: (Ch 5, go
behind the petal, ss to the first ss of the next petal) around. (6 ch-5-lps)
Note: Mark the first dc of
the first 4-dc-group for placement of the joining-st in next rnd.
Rnd 4: (Sc, Hdc, 4
Dc, Hdc, Sc) in each ch-5-lp around.
Join to the 1st sc.
FO. (6 petals)
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in the first dc of the
4-dc-group [marked st].
Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook (first picot-loop made).
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook) 2xs,
then ss in the same st as the first
picot-lp [3-loop-picot complete].
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc
of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4 [first spoke complete].
* Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook,
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch
from the hook) 2xs, ss in the same st as the first picot-lp.
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc
of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4.* (second spoke complete).
Repeat from * to * 9xs. Skip the 4th dc on
the last dc-group.
Instead join the last ch 7 with a
ss in the first dc of the 4-dc-group [marked st]. (11 spokes with 3-lp-picots).
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc on the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Work a Sc around the hoop-ring catching a center picot-loop from Rnd 5.
(11 Sc, Sc with next
center-picot-loop from Rnd 5, 12 Sc,
Sc with next center-picot-loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO. (126 + 11 links = 137 sc)
Simple Web: 8.5” (21.5 cm)
Special Stitch:
Beg-Dc-Cluster = YO, insert hook in the st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps
on hook,
(YO,
insert hook in same st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook),
YO, pull through all 3 lps on the hook, ch 1 to complete.
3Dc-Cluster =
YO, insert hook in st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook,
(YO, insert hook in same st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on
hook) twice, YO, pull through all 4 lps on the hook, ch 1 to complete.
Rnd 1: Ch 10, join to first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, 12 sc in the ring.
Join to the 1st sc with a ss. (12 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, Beg-Dc-Cluster in first
sc,
(Ch
6, skip 1 sc, 3-Dc-Cluster in next sc) 5xs, Ch 3 and Dc in top of first
cluster.
(6
clusters + 6 ch-6lps)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, Sc in the joined loop. (Ch 12, Sc in next lp) around.
Join
to 1st sc with a ss. (6
ch-12-lps)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, Sc in same joined st. (Ch 12, Sc in next loop, Ch 12, Sc in the
next sc) around.
Join
to 1st sc with a ss. (12
ch12-lps)
Rnd 5: Ss in the first 6 chs of the
next lp. (Ch 12, Sc in the next lp)
around. Join to the 1st sc
and FO.
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc. [You will have worked the Sc around both the
loop and the hoop-ring]
(10 Sc, Sc next
loop from Rnd 5, 11 Sc, Sc next
loop) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO.
(126 + 12 links = 138 sc)
Traditional Dream Catcher: 9 ½” (24 cm)
Rnd 1: 12 Dc in a Magic Ring. Join to 1st dc with
a ss. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, Dc-Inc
around. Join. (24)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, Sc in
same as joined st. (Ch 5, Skip 1 st, Sc
in next) around.
On last Ch 5, ss to the 1st
sc to join. FO. (12 ch-5-lps)
Rnd 4: Join a new
color with a ss in a ch-5-lp.
(Ch 10, ss in the next ch-5 lp)
around. Join last ch-8 to 1st
lp with a ss. FO.
(12 ch-10-lps)
Rnd 5: Join a new
color with a ss in a ch-5-lp.
(Ch 12, ss in the next ch-5 lp)
around. Join last ch-8 to 1st
lp with a ss. FO.
(12 ch-122-lps)
Rnd 6: Join a new
color with a ss in a ch-5-lp.
(Ch 14, ss in the next ch-5 lp)
around. Join last ch-8 to 1st
lp with a ss. FO. (12 ch-14-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc. [You will have worked the Sc around both the
loop and the hoop-ring]
(11 Sc, Sc next
loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO.
(132 + 12 links = 144 sc)
Beige Flower Shape: 9 ½” (24 cm)
Rnd 1: 6 Sc in a Magic Ring. Join to 1st sc with
a ss. (6)
(Dc, Ch 3, Dc) in the next st around.
Join with a ss to the 3rd
ch of beg ch-6. (12 ch3-loops)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 7, Sc in top of
next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st
sc. (12 ch7-lps)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 11, Sc in top of
next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st
sc. (12 ch11-lps)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 15, Sc in top of
next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st
sc. (12 ch15-lps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 19, Sc in top of
next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st
sc. (12 ch19-lps)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 23, Sc in top of
next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st
sc. FO. (12 ch23-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc. [You will have worked the Sc around both the
loop and the hoop-ring]
(11 Sc, Sc next
loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st
st. FO.
(132 + 12 links = 144 sc)
Feathers and Tether
Sport Wt yarn and 3.75mm / F hook
Feather: Ch 8, ss in 2nd ch from
hook. Sc in next. (Ch 1, Skip one ch,
Hdc in next) 2xs. Ch 1, 3 Sc in last ch.
Work opposite side of foundation-chain: Ch 1, Hdc in next ch. Ch 1, Skip one ch, Hdc in next. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, Sc in next and ss in same as
first ss. Ch 2, ss in the 2nd
ch from the hook (Picot made).
Now surface crochet with yarn held underneath: ss in the
same as the first ss, then ss through each of the next 6 chs of the foundation-chain.
One more ss through the 2nd sc.
Do not FO yet.
Feather-Tail: Ch 4, ss in the 2nd and 3rd
chs, and the last ss in the 4th ch will be in the
back-ridge-bump.
This positions the yarn to be weaved into the back of the
leaf. FO and weave in.
Tether for the Top:
Ch 40, join to the first ch to form a ring. FO and weave in.
Tether for the Bottom to attach feathers:
Leave ~ 5” beginning yarn.
Ch 40, Sc in the 3rd ch from the beginning.
Sc in the 2nd and 1st chs and FO with
about ~ 5” tail.
Place a feather right side up on top of the 3 sc’s.
Wrap the yarn ends crossed-over the feather and around the
back and knot in place.
Use the yarn end to tack the feather-tail to the 3 sc’s on
the tether.
Add the feathers, to the Dream Catchers and you will have
sweet dreams.
Love, Love, LOVE!! the dream catchers!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much.
ReplyDeleteI had such fun making these.
I had remembered them from when I was younger.
But it was my 5 year old grandson that taught me their meaning.
When someone comments that they like my patterns, it makes me smile.
So thank you for making my day!